Sometimes you really have to experience the pits to learn to appreciate something as simple as a bus ride. The sweaty, swervey trip from Puerto Maldonado to Puno will certainly make me appreciate any bus with air conditioning, or at a bare minimum a driver without a deathwish. Alas, Riley & I arrived in Juliaca alive and thankful for the …
Crammed Collectivos in the Valle
I’ve been on the move a lot over the last few weeks. From the montane ecosystems in the Andes to the low jungle to the high desert (future posts on the latter two to come). When I was first planning this trip, I thought about including Chile, Bolivia, Ecuador, and Columbia in my itinerary. While I still want to visit …
Cuy on the Brain
Calca is solace from the bustle of Cusco. By car, you head north through hills studded with Incan ruins, then drop down into the Valle Sagrado, and drive along countless fields and several little towns filled with “cuyerias” and road-side vendors. Calca is where bakery jefe Amilcar was raised. He still has plenty of family there, and I’ve been so …
Warm Welcome in Cusco
I’m already feeling at home here in Cusco. Good friends, good food, and plenty of exploring to do in and outside of the city. My flight here was a stroke of luck – I met a friendly old brit (Dave, who lives in New Mexico) who told me all about his 20 years living in Peru working for an international …
Lima Round 2 (plus Ica & Huacachina)
Greetings from the rooftop of my hostel in Lima. It’s my last morning here until I return to fly back to Portland next month. I’m not sad to be leaving, but I have to say I’m surprised by how much I enjoyed my stay here. Coming into this week, I’d heard a lot of people bash on Lima. My friend who …
Lima Round 1
This city is loud. Car horns blaring, brass bands marching the street, people yelling over each other in open-air markets – Lima is buzzing. Even the food is loud. I’ve had some incredible meals since arriving, and each one has delivered a punch that tears through my stuffed sinuses and leaves me wanting more. Rocoto peppers are everywhere, and are …
Hello World
Hi everybody, welcome to the chronicles of my trip to Peru! This will be the first time I’ve been in South America and I AM HYPED. I’m writing this with a wonderful nervous feeling as I wait for my first flight of the trip. First stop is Lima, where I will be hanging out in with my co-baker Fredy’s family and …