Cuy on the Brain

Calca is solace from the bustle of Cusco. By car, you head north through hills studded with Incan ruins, then drop down into the Valle Sagrado, and drive along countless fields and several little towns filled with “cuyerias” and road-side vendors. Calca is where bakery jefe Amilcar was raised. He still has plenty of family there, and I’ve been so …

Warm Welcome in Cusco

I’m already feeling at home here in Cusco. Good friends, good food, and plenty of exploring to do in and outside of the city. My flight here was a stroke of luck – I met a friendly old brit (Dave, who lives in New Mexico) who told me all about his 20 years living in Peru working for an international …

Lima Round 2 (plus Ica & Huacachina)

Greetings from the rooftop of my hostel in Lima. It’s my last morning here until I return to fly back to Portland next month. I’m not sad to be leaving, but I have to say I’m surprised by how much I enjoyed my stay here. Coming into this week, I’d heard a lot of people bash on Lima. My friend who …

Lima Round 1

This city is loud. Car horns blaring, brass bands marching the street, people yelling over each other in open-air markets – Lima is buzzing. Even the food is loud. I’ve had some incredible meals since arriving, and each one has delivered a punch that tears through my stuffed sinuses and leaves me wanting more. Rocoto peppers are everywhere, and are …